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Sunday, 20 January 2008 08:00 |
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Lesson 1 - Pick the Ruts!
On steep uphill or downhill climbs, most of the time, it’s smarter to ride through the ruts. This way you have the luxury of lateral balance. If in case you lose power or momentum and start to slide down, chances are is that you still have your wheels on the ground. You also can lock or wedge your wheels inside the rut to keep you from sliding all the way down.
Lesson 2 – Keep Momentum!
You should at least keep 5 kph speeds to maintain momentum on difficult terrains. Whether it is climbing up or down, it is better to float over the little ditches, bumpy tracks, mud, off cambers and worse yet exposed tree roots. As soon as you stop or pose (hesitation) you will immediately find yourself stuck.
Lesson 3 – Riding Phase…
Take it like a roller coaster ride! There is what you call a “trail riding phase”. This is a kind of momentum that appears to be racing wild and too fast. Actually it is the most convenient speed to trail ride on. It will save you from difficult spot better as you tend to fly low over them. It also saves you from unnecessary bumps and lateral instability.
Lesson 4 – Off Camber (UPHILLS)
Try to ride a perpendicular angle with the off camber spot. Apply a downward pressure on the high side peg and handlebar. As much as possible, maintain a straight line. Any steering deviation can cause the rear wheel to spin and slide down. Steady on the gas and avoid sudden opening or closing of the throttle.
Lesson 5 – Off Camber (DOWNHILLS)
Just roll the bike down. Try not to apply the throttle and avoid braking as much as possible. Put weight on the high peg and handle bar. Momentum is an important factor.
Lesson 6 – Tackling Roots, Rocks, and Logs, etc.
Like any obstacles high or low, try to hit it straight (perpendicular). Given enough momentum just to get over it, never stall or hesitate. Keep gassing until you are over it. Once stucked, sometimes it is better to go back down and do it all over again rather than bulldogging it up.
Lesson 7 – “Berm Shot”
Riding at your “trail phase,” you would most likely be hunting for berms to shoot on. Glide through using your momentum and use your centrifugal force. A slight depression or rut is already considered a berm.
Lesson 8 – Long Steep Uphill Climbs
At least 5 kph momentum is required to tackle these very steep climbs. Smaller displacement or high speed engines needs faster momentum to keep you from stalling. As you encounter along the way blocks like rocks, and tree roots etc., never hesitates and keep going! Possibly apply more throttle to compensate on blocking angles ahead until you reach the top.
Lesson 9 – Long Steep Downhill Rides
There is a comfortable speed while you are going down. It is generally the speed that you are between rolling and sliding going down. This is the point that you still have considerable control of you bike. 2nd gear is generally most comfortable gear as you are not riding down too fast. However, if it is too low for your speed, you need to shift higher. Steady pressure on the rear brakes; be careful not to apply too much pressure in the front brakes to avoid tumbling over (endoing). A good grip on the handlebar can keep you from going astray. Caution: once you are sliding down (maybe out of control), never try to stop as this will make you slide down more. Instead, use gradual brake pressure to get your control on the bike back.
Lesson 10 – Shifting On Long Steep Uphill Climbs
Although given enough speed to reach the top, you sometimes will encounter a loss of power that it will require you shift to lower gear. Timing is very important!
You need to shift gear down even before you sense that you are losing your power. Plan ahead in anticipation! Avoid stalling or stopping on the climb (especially on an angle change) or even shifting too late. All these can cause you to loop over.
Lean forward and try to put more weight on the front. As your speed diminishes, sometimes you need to close and open the gas to spin you wheel a little and correct the possible error of looping over. As you encounter a change of angle, given the momentum, it is best that you have your throttle closed at this point and opening it ounce you are over it.
Lesson 11 – Stalled In An Uphill Climb
It is most of the time smarter to glide back down when you find yourself stalled half way or even near the top of a climb. However, predicaments dictate that you are determined to continue the climb. Firstly, after successfully restarting your bike and shifting on gear, lean forward and put more weight on the front. Gas it up and try to spin the wheel a little by putting less weight on the rear.
The return the pressure on you rear wheel. When you find the front end lifting up, apply less weight on the seat and let the rear wheel spin again and repeat the process.
Lesson 12 – Gliding Down Your Bike In A Stalled Uphill Climb
If you didn’t make it to the top and stalled yourself in a cliffhanging situation, like you need to ditch it down before it loop over or rolls down backwards. Swinging it around would the best idea. Go to the low side of the bike (which is the higher part of the hill). Now lift the bike from that point and let it lean on your thigh or hip as you gradually roll the bike around front wheel first.### |
