Lesson 7 – “Berm Shot”

Riding at your “trail phase,” you would most likely be hunting for berms to shoot on. Glide through using your momentum and use your centrifugal force. A slight depression or rut is already considered a berm.

Lesson 8 – Long Steep Uphill Climbs

At least 5 kph momentum is required to tackle these very steep climbs. Smaller displacement or high speed engines needs faster momentum to keep you from stalling. As you encounter along the way blocks like rocks, and tree roots etc., never hesitates and keep going! Possibly apply more throttle to compensate on blocking angles ahead until you reach the top.

Lesson 9 – Long Steep Downhill Rides

There is a comfortable speed while you are going down. It is generally the speed that you are between rolling and sliding going down. This is the point that you still have considerable control of you bike. 2nd gear is generally most comfortable gear as you are not riding down too fast. However, if it is too low for your speed, you need to shift higher. Steady pressure on the rear brakes; be careful not to apply too much pressure in the front brakes to avoid tumbling over (endoing). A good grip on the handlebar can keep you from going astray. Caution: once you are sliding down (maybe out of control), never try to stop as this will make you slide down more. Instead, use gradual brake pressure to get your control on the bike back.

Lesson 10 – Shifting On Long Steep Uphill Climbs

Although given enough speed to reach the top, you sometimes will encounter a loss of power that it will require you shift to lower gear. Timing is very important!

You need to shift gear down even before you sense that you are losing your power. Plan ahead in anticipation! Avoid stalling or stopping on the climb (especially on an angle change) or even shifting too late. All these can cause you to loop over.

Lean forward and try to put more weight on the front. As your speed diminishes, sometimes you need to close and open the gas to spin you wheel a little and correct the possible error of looping over. As you encounter a change of angle, given the momentum, it is best that you have your throttle closed at this point and opening it ounce you are over it.

Lesson 11 – Stalled In An Uphill Climb

It is most of the time smarter to glide back down when you find yourself stalled half way or even near the top of a climb. However, predicaments dictate that you are determined to continue the climb. Firstly, after successfully restarting your bike and shifting on gear, lean forward and put more weight on the front. Gas it up and try to spin the wheel a little by putting less weight on the rear.

The return the pressure on you rear wheel. When you find the front end lifting up, apply less weight on the seat and let the rear wheel spin again and repeat the process.

Lesson 12 – Gliding Down Your Bike In A Stalled Uphill Climb

If you didn’t make it to the top and stalled yourself in a cliffhanging situation, like you need to ditch it down before it loop over or rolls down backwards. Swinging it around would the best idea. Go to the low side of the bike (which is the higher part of the hill). Now lift the bike from that point and let it lean on your thigh or hip as you gradually roll the bike around front wheel first.